Christmas Day walk from Albufeira

There wasn't a snowflake - or raindrop - to be seen in Armação de Pêra

Several months before our first Christmas together, Harri and I established that neither of us is a huge fan of the festive season. With my eldest two daughters grown up and only the youngest still at home, we decided to take off to Madeira for two weeks, thus avoiding all festivities except for our office dinner and dance. 

We had a fantastic time, hiking every day in warm sunshine and eating out most evenings. That first year together, we established our preference for an 'alternative' Christmas. It doesn't mean we go into hiding for the entire Christmas holidays, rather that we refuse to be stuck inside for days on end bored rigid. One year we spent four memorable days in a Travelodge in Cross Hands, hiking on Gower by day and devouring a buffet-style meal each evening. 

The arrival of parkrun in Newport helped. For five years, Christmas morning started with a quick 5km with friends at Tredegar House. Two years ago, we completed parkrun then headed straight to Porthcawl (in fancy dress) with our extended family to join hundreds of other slightly crazy people for the 50th Christmas swim.

My family waiting to brave the water at Porthcawl - Christmas Day 2014

Christmas Day 2016 was always going to be different because we would be on our own here in Albufeira without even our usual friendly parkrun to kickstart the morning. So, after sharing Christmas greetings with our loved ones courtesy of social media, we packed our rucksacks and ventured out into a gloriously warm and sunny day.

A chance conversation with a fellow Brit in Arte's bar a few days earlier had alerted Harri to the existence of the Lagoa dos Salgados on the far side of Galé and once he's got an idea for a hike into his head ... 

The man had mentioned that the main road (M526) which passes the lagoon was too busy to walk along, so Harri had spent time working out a scenic and mostly level route leaving Albufeira along historic country lanes. 

Just a few minutes out of Albufeira and the landscape changes dramatically

What amazed us both was how rural and tranquil the landscape became within minutes of leaving Albufeira (a city we have quickly grown to love, I should add). For a while, the only houses we passed were single-storey and traditional, homes where generations of the same family lived and farmed their land. Eventually, the landscape changed again; now we were walking past sprawling villas with equally large gates (and warnings of surveillance systems). Bored dogs, banned from the busy Christmas kitchen, barked excitedly at us from behind tall fences and Harri cringed with embarrassment as I called out 'Feliz Natal' to them.

We crossed the M526 (not too busy this morning) and crossed a large level area of grass before reaching the lagoon proper. To our surprise, we weren't the only people out enjoying the Christmas sunshine - the car park was busy and there were family groups everywhere. Spotting several flamingos wading in the distant shallow waters, I tried (and failed) to zoom-in and take some wildlife photographs. Harri assured me we'd be following the extensive boardwalk route along the edge of the lagoon on our return route so I could have another go later; for now, we were heading to the beach and on to Armação de Pêra.

The dreaded river crossing 

I'd received brief video messages from my granddaughters first thing this morning so we decided to make our own Christmas messages from the beach. It was a bit of a struggle to make ourselves heard above the roar of the waves, but we persevered and eventually had two short evidently unscripted films. 

Harri has a frustrating habit of failing to mention anything he thinks might put me off walking a particular route. This time it was the Ribeiro de Alcantarilha, the river which runs into the Atlantic Ocean a stone's throw from Armação de Pêra. While it's not a particularly big river, it widens dramatically a little way inland, effectively creating a second lagoon. The only way of reaching our destination, it now transpired, was to wade across the river mouth. 

I could feel the panic welling up inside me, but Harri pointed out that a young woman had just waded through without ill effect. It would be fine, he insisted. I'm not sure whether it's always fine, but he was right on this occasion. We took our shoes and socks off and waded across the shallow water between waves. 

Could there be any better spot for Christmas drinks?

It was now lunchtime and time for our first Christmas drink. Armação de Pêra wasn't exactly bustling but there were a fair few bars and restaurants open. The first one we tried insisted we drank our lagers inside or bought a meal, so we plumped for a classy-looking beachside restaurant where we sat on high stools in brilliant sunshine and marvelled that we could ever have survived so many cold, damp Christmases in the UK.

Eventually it was time to head back (sunset being around 5.15pm) and this time it wasn't me being a sissy at the river crossing but a large dog who was determined he wasn't getting his feet wet.

Not a cloud in the sky ... perfect weather for Christmas Day hiking

We left the beach and followed the boardwalks alongside the lagoon for a long time, amazed at the number of people who were out walking and cycling. We both prefer circular walks so rather than return to Albufeira via the inland route, we followed a clifftop route, which was mostly relatively easy and occasionally tough going. 

Our coastal return to Albufeira was somewhat tougher than our outward route

The sun was just setting when we strolled back into Albufeira via the marina. We'd walked just over 26 kilometres and, despite the dwindling daylight, I was wearing nothing more than a thin short-sleeved shirt and shorts. Christmas 'lunch' just needed to be warmed up and there was a bottle of delicious vinho verde waiting in the fridge. Our first Christmas Day in Portugal had definitely been a day to remember!

Nearly home ... the approach to Albufeira's marina at twilight

The run-up to Christmas

One of Old Town's Christmas trees

It's always tough to be away from loved ones at Christmas, but much worse if you find yourself stuck somewhere devoid of festive atmosphere and with no friendly company.

Fortunately, neither could be farther from the truth here in Albufeira. The Old Town district where we're living has really come alive over the past few days. When we arrived at the beginning of December there were few tourists around but now the restaurants and bars that are open (and not all are) are positively bustling.

With such a stunning backdrop this tree doesn't need lights 

While the city's Christmas lights aren't quite as dazzling as the ones we saw in Madeira one Christmas, the council here has made a real effort. There are two towering Christmas trees in Old Town and lots of fairy lights attached to lampposts and strung across streets. The overall effect is very pretty, although the juxtaposition of a palm tree and a Christmas tree takes a little getting used to.

The day before Christmas Eve, I 'persuaded' Harri to join me for the Christmas food shop. At home, with a car at my disposal, the food shopping is something I generally do alone, but this time I needed his help (and muscles!). We'd planned to shop in the morning when the Algarve's supermarkets tend to be quieter; however, one of the translators was late sending a piece of work through so Harri ended up having to work until lunchtime. 

The seafront bars are starting to get busier

Even though we didn't get there until about 3pm (we stopped off for a drink and tostas on route), the Lidl in Albufeira was far quieter than our local UK store on a normal Saturday morning. Rather than the usual pre-Christmas panic buying, shoppers appeared to be strolling around without a care in the world ... and there were still plenty of turkeys left. Ditto Aldi the following morning when I returned alone to buy the vital ingredient for our Christmas menu: 3lbs of potatoes to make bacalhau com natas. 

Our alternative Christmas lunch was absolutely delicious

What has really made our Christmas here in Albufeira is meeting some great English-speaking people from across Europe (and even the Caribbean) who've welcomed us into their social circle. When we arrived, our lettings agent Vincent took us for a short drive around the immediate neighbourhood pointing out useful landmarks like the nearest refuse and recycling bin sites, the closest supermarket (Intermarché) and Arte's Bar, where many English-speaking residents and holiday makers hang out. It took us almost a week to venture into our local bar and we were immediately sorry we'd waited so long. The clientele are an eclectic bunch and hail from places as far apart as Sweden, Hungary, Trinidad and, of course, the UK. Many customers are Portuguese people who enjoy a chat in English.

Harri enjoying a pint in Arte's bar

We were immediately invited to the bar's Christmas party at a local restaurant the following Friday and told about the bring-a-plate party on Christmas Eve. We decided to take up both offers, which is how we found ourselves enjoying a slap-up three-course meal with wine at Restaurante Comida Tipica for just 20 euros per head. The food was just amazing and we loved the fact that the various dishes were brought to the table so that we could try a bit of everything. Christmas Eve was another good night, though this time the buffet-style cuisine was mostly sandwiches, baguettes and sausage rolls. 

Our Christmas gifts from Vincent

Something which touched us greatly was when Vincent arrived at our villa on Friday morning with a card, a large bolo de rei (traditional Portuguese Christmas cake) and a boxed bottle of port. I have rented several properties in the UK over the years and never, not even once, has a lettings agent given me a Christmas present. Vincent's gift, I should add, follows close on the heels of several welcome presents from our villa's elderly owner: a delicious homemade cake, a bottle of red wine and three small bottles of port. The generosity of the Portuguese people is just one of the many reasons we love this small country and keep returning. 

A cake, port and bottle of red awaited us in our villa

Navigating Albufeira on foot

My favourite route to ... everywhere

One of the big decisions we faced when deciding to spend the winter in Albufeira was whether or not to bring our car to Portugal. We had three options:

• Catch the ferry to Santander and drive through Spain and Portugal. A friend did something similar (when heading to Spain) a few years ago and I remember being surprised at how the costs escalated when you took the ferry, fuel and road tolls into account. And we'd have those same costs again when we return to the UK in three months time. This option also meant a lot of driving (over 1,000 kilometres in Spain/Portugal alone), meaning the overall journey would probably take three days each way. 
• Fly to Faro and hire a car for the duration of our stay. This would once have been our default choice, but that was in the days when we thought a holiday wasn't a holiday without a hire car at our disposal. We've since discovered how much more interesting it can be to travel around on public transport!
• Fly to Faro and not hire a car. This was definitely the cheapest option, but could be a bit of a gamble as, airport transfers aside, we'd be relying on buses and our feet to get us everywhere.

In the end, like most decisions, it came down to money. We really couldn't justify spending so much to bring our car to the Algarve, knowing that it would remain stationary outside our villa from Monday to Friday. The hire car option was ruled out for the same reason ... if we found we needed a car for any particular trip, we could hire one then. For the most part, we were confident we could rely on public transport and our feet to get around.

Everyone remembers the dolphin roundabout

Fortunately, once you've got the basic geography of Albufeira in your head, it's quite easy to find your way around the city. We've been told that everyone here navigates and gives directions from the various landmark roundabouts, so it's essential to locate the key ones early on. 

We're living within a few minutes' walk of the gravity-defying dolphin roundabout (rotunda dos golfinhos). From here you can head downhill and right towards Old Town and the beach. Carry on uphill past the discoveries roundabout (rotunda dos descobrimentos) and you'll soon reach Lidl and Aldi (a right turning at the roundabout also takes you back to Old Town). 

Ahead for the supermarkets, right to the beach

If you stick to the main road, not long after the German supermarkets you'll reach the turning (on the left) for the Mercado Municipal dos Caliços and the bus station. The two-weekly open air market is held along this road, just past the bus station.

Carry on straight ahead and you'll soon spot the Golden Arches heralding the presence of a McDonald's takeaway. On my first walkabout, I thought I'd reached the Strip at this point; however, there are two more roundabouts before you reach Albufeira's infamous street.

One roundabout that would be hard to miss!

Just past Albufeira shopping (set slightly back from the main road on your right) is the rotunda do relógio, a fun affair featuring two large watches.

If you decide to venture onwards to the Strip, then you need to be looking out for the rotunda das minhocas (worms roundabout). It's pretty difficult to miss: two giant-sized worms - one red, one green - upright and entwined, sporting yellow sunglasses. By now, you are right in the centre of where it's all happening ... well, during the summer months anyway. The bars, restaurants and gift shops start well before you turn right onto the Strip itself. 

When you spot these dudes, you're nearing the Strip

There is another roundabout that I've passed on my walkabouts, just up the hill from the Albufeira Hotel: it looks like a fisherman sitting in a small boat with a large wave about to engulf him. 

Together Albufeira's quirky roundabouts have helped me quickly form a basic map of this hilly city in my head. It doesn't mean I don't wander off route occasionally ... in the sunshine, it's impossible to resist the lure of the beach, even if it means adding another few kilometres to my shopping trip.

Not so vital for navigation but another great roundabout

Walking everywhere isn't for everyone, of course, and shopping takes far more time without a car than it did at home. That said, discovering Albufeira on foot is fun and means I'm getting to discover those narrow cobbled streets and the hidden steps that link them far more quickly than if we had a car at our disposal.

Our new home in Albufeira

The street outside our home

I've been a fan of Channel Four's Place in the Sun for as long as I can remember, but if I'm honest (and I always try to be) my longing to live somewhere warm and sunny always felt something of a pipe dream. For a long time, there were family commitments (my youngest daughter is ten years younger than my eldest ... and there's one inbetween), a large mortgage fixed when interest rates were much higher (what idiot decides to move house in June 2007?), job security, then redundancy, unemployment and job insecurity.

Then all at once, several things happened and the impossible began to feel like it might just be achievable. First, after a long time without a job I got two (one part-time for 18 months, one freelance) and my partner Harri's freelance editing work picked up significantly. Having got used to being frugal(ish), we decided to throw the extra cash at our mortgage. Our efforts were boosted unexpectedly by an inheritance which happened to be £120 more than our outstanding mortgage ... incredibly in five years we'd gone from a monthly mortgage payment of £907 to being mortgage free!

Next door's Moorish chimney but our flower

With all three daughters now working and self-sufficient, we realised if we didn't seize the opportunity now, we never would. The plan was to spend three months here as a sort of 'test run' to see if the reality of living abroad lived up to the dream. Harri would continue with his freelance work and I'd focus on my writing ... first finishing my travelogue about walking the Via Algarviana last year and then picking up the novel I started er ... too long ago! 

Our next decision was where to stay. For me, the Algarve was always the first choice, but we'd had an enjoyable holiday in the Costa Brava earlier in the year so Harri was torn between the two countries. I was adamant that we chose somewhere with a bit of life in the winter, but with bills to cover at home (council tax, water, insurance, etc), we weren't in a position to spend a fortune on rent. 

In some ways, it was a happy fluke that we ended up in Albufeira. The lettings agent just happened to the first to respond to several enquiries I'd sent out and he could guarantee internet access from day one (essential when you're self-employed and your work arrives via email). The property in question was free for the three months we wanted so we snapped it up without hesitation. Our two-bedroom villa is costing us €550 a calendar month and we have to pay the electricity bills on top (which the agent estimates to be around €80. We also paid a €300 cash deposit on arrival. And that's it! No gas, no council tax equivalent, no additional charge for the internet ... 

Enjoying the December sunshine outside the mercado municipal

Our villa is traditional with terracotta tiled floors and azulejos (painted tiles) on walls, the drinks counter, the kitchen bar, even the food trolley. We have two large bedrooms with fitted wardrobes, two bathrooms (one with bath), a large lounge with a separate cosy area around the real fire at one end and a kitchen with seating. The agent apologised for its 'traditional' features and clearly thought the villa was too old-fashioned in many ways, but we love it here.

There's also pretty garden with a plunge pool, clothes line and lots of flowers (a gardener calls in pretty regularly to maintain everything). We also have a weekly maid who changes the beds and towels and mops the floors (I feel so spoilt when she's racing around with the mop and I'm sat on my computer!).

Best of all, are the wonderful sea views from the patio and the lounge. Not that we're overlooking the sea close up (you'd have to pay considerably more than €550 for that!) but it's always there in the distance, changing colour depending on the weather. 

Incredibly, our little house will be commanding a rental income of €950 per week next summer. I think we got ourselves a bargain!

Looking over Albufeira at sunset

Despite two previous hiking trips to the Algarve, we'd never actually been to Albufeira before so it was just good luck that we chose a villa so well-located for pretty much everything we need. The marina is a short stroll down the hill and if you head in the other direction you soon reach Old Town with its many bars and restaurants (several closed at this time of year). If we head uphill from our new home and take a short cut through an open air bar, we emerge at the Dolphin roundabout (apparently all directions in Albufeira are given from one of the town's many roundabouts) and can head downhill then uphill to Lidl and Aldi. If you carry on a while and turn left, you reach the two-weekly market and the bus station. From there it's easy to head downhill to Albufeira Shopping and it's only a short stroll to 'the Strip' where the nightlife is lively during the summer months.

Of course, there are short cuts to some of the more distant places, but they generally involve steeper climbs and (for me) a high risk of getting lost, which rather defeats the object.

So that's us. We're here until the beginning of March and, so far, are enjoying exploring a new city where we've been met with nothing but friendliness and kindness. When Harri's not working, we'll be cramming in as much hiking in the area as possible ... with weather like this in December it would be criminal not to get out there as much as possible!!