The run-up to Christmas

One of Old Town's Christmas trees

It's always tough to be away from loved ones at Christmas, but much worse if you find yourself stuck somewhere devoid of festive atmosphere and with no friendly company.

Fortunately, neither could be farther from the truth here in Albufeira. The Old Town district where we're living has really come alive over the past few days. When we arrived at the beginning of December there were few tourists around but now the restaurants and bars that are open (and not all are) are positively bustling.

With such a stunning backdrop this tree doesn't need lights 

While the city's Christmas lights aren't quite as dazzling as the ones we saw in Madeira one Christmas, the council here has made a real effort. There are two towering Christmas trees in Old Town and lots of fairy lights attached to lampposts and strung across streets. The overall effect is very pretty, although the juxtaposition of a palm tree and a Christmas tree takes a little getting used to.

The day before Christmas Eve, I 'persuaded' Harri to join me for the Christmas food shop. At home, with a car at my disposal, the food shopping is something I generally do alone, but this time I needed his help (and muscles!). We'd planned to shop in the morning when the Algarve's supermarkets tend to be quieter; however, one of the translators was late sending a piece of work through so Harri ended up having to work until lunchtime. 

The seafront bars are starting to get busier

Even though we didn't get there until about 3pm (we stopped off for a drink and tostas on route), the Lidl in Albufeira was far quieter than our local UK store on a normal Saturday morning. Rather than the usual pre-Christmas panic buying, shoppers appeared to be strolling around without a care in the world ... and there were still plenty of turkeys left. Ditto Aldi the following morning when I returned alone to buy the vital ingredient for our Christmas menu: 3lbs of potatoes to make bacalhau com natas. 

Our alternative Christmas lunch was absolutely delicious

What has really made our Christmas here in Albufeira is meeting some great English-speaking people from across Europe (and even the Caribbean) who've welcomed us into their social circle. When we arrived, our lettings agent Vincent took us for a short drive around the immediate neighbourhood pointing out useful landmarks like the nearest refuse and recycling bin sites, the closest supermarket (Intermarché) and Arte's Bar, where many English-speaking residents and holiday makers hang out. It took us almost a week to venture into our local bar and we were immediately sorry we'd waited so long. The clientele are an eclectic bunch and hail from places as far apart as Sweden, Hungary, Trinidad and, of course, the UK. Many customers are Portuguese people who enjoy a chat in English.

Harri enjoying a pint in Arte's bar

We were immediately invited to the bar's Christmas party at a local restaurant the following Friday and told about the bring-a-plate party on Christmas Eve. We decided to take up both offers, which is how we found ourselves enjoying a slap-up three-course meal with wine at Restaurante Comida Tipica for just 20 euros per head. The food was just amazing and we loved the fact that the various dishes were brought to the table so that we could try a bit of everything. Christmas Eve was another good night, though this time the buffet-style cuisine was mostly sandwiches, baguettes and sausage rolls. 

Our Christmas gifts from Vincent

Something which touched us greatly was when Vincent arrived at our villa on Friday morning with a card, a large bolo de rei (traditional Portuguese Christmas cake) and a boxed bottle of port. I have rented several properties in the UK over the years and never, not even once, has a lettings agent given me a Christmas present. Vincent's gift, I should add, follows close on the heels of several welcome presents from our villa's elderly owner: a delicious homemade cake, a bottle of red wine and three small bottles of port. The generosity of the Portuguese people is just one of the many reasons we love this small country and keep returning. 

A cake, port and bottle of red awaited us in our villa